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Beteiligte Autoren:
jnd, Bernd_M, Bernd Schlueter, Oli A., R.M, Sascha Meyer, Ralf Engelhardt, thegray, Reinhold Schebler, Friedhelm Hahn

Advice about battery Trojan 105 Ah

Startbeitrag von jnd am 21.04.2009 10:35

Hi, everyone!

I sold my old batteryes.(They was MonB@t semi-trraction 12v 100Ah , no more then 15 km per charge. ) Big fun..hahahaha.

Now i decide to buy Trojan 31XHS 12V Deep Cycle Battery 105 Ah .


Is this a good enough battery of this kind?


Have a nice day!


Die 50 interessantesten Antworten:

Hi Liubomir,
heavy to say something ´bout batteries nobody did ever driven. If you want to hear some words of experience, no one here can say anything, i guess.
Are these lead made batteries cheap?

It seems you have to play beta-tester..

Sorry for the lack of help..

Greetings from Germany, Sascha

von Sascha Meyer - am 21.04.2009 19:09

Hy, Sascha !

This is the answer :

[22:04:00] jnd: Can i run more then 35 km. per charge?

answer :

at 30° C over 50km


This is good enough to me.

i will buy this battery.

von jnd - am 21.04.2009 19:23
Hmmm, of course you can run this far. The question is: How long can you stress these batteries? 3000 kilometers, 6000 or just only 500.
No one can say how long these batteries will stand..

Greetings from Germany, Sascha

von Sascha Meyer - am 21.04.2009 19:29

Täusch dich nicht bei den Dingern, die sind recht zyklenfest, haben aber wie fast alle Reinbleiakkus den Effekt daß sie bis zum Schluß saumäßig gute Leistung bringen und dann innerhalb von 2 bis 3 Zyklen total ausfallen.

Ich hab solche Akkus mal übergangsweise im El gehabt, da hatten sie schon 10 Jahre in einer USV hinter sich.

Obwohl die nur 75 Ah hatten habe ich eine Reichweite von etwa 50 km bei 48V gehabt.

Die Spannungslage ist allerdings komplett anders, die gehen inerhalb weniger Minuten auf 12V und lassen dann sehr langsam in der Spannung nach.

Im großen und ganzen findet die komplette Entladung etwa 0,7 V tiefer statt als bei den Champions,

CC baut ja inzwischen auch die Optimas ein die eine ähnliche Charakteristik haben.



von R.M - am 21.04.2009 19:52
I am not shure that i understand this at 100 %.

"....von 2 bis 3 Zyklen total ausfallen." - Why?

This is translation fromm google translate:

"Do not be mistaken for things that are quite cycle, but like almost all Reinbleiakkus ?? the effect that until the end saumäßig ?? good performance and then within 2-3 cycles of total failure.

Ich hab mal ?? batteries such as those in transition had El because it already had 10 years in a UPS behind.

The voltage, however, is completely different to go inerhalb a few minutes to 12V and can be very slow in the tension after.

By and large, the complete discharge to 0.7 V rather than deeper in the Champions ??,

CC ?? is indeed now the one the optima a similar characteristic."

I don`t understand everithing. Maybe someone to help me just with few words to understand. I put "??" when i don`t unrerstand..

von jnd - am 22.04.2009 04:48
This is it - i send the money to factory here in Bg. It is EnerSys. and i hope after 20 days to have new power in my El.



von jnd - am 22.04.2009 04:49
Hi Jnd

last week I bought the Trojan 27TMX 105 Ah C20 (85Ah C5). They have now their first 500km on the their neck. Capacity is very well after the first 6 full-cycles. Yesterday I did drive about 45km without charging, and the batts were not going extremely down, even I used to accelerate often with 60-80 amps in the city (!!)
Back at home, after 2 hours of stand-by, the voltage was already at 12.15V.

Banner (Distributor in Switzerland) said also to me, the batteries can survive more than 1500 Circles if the maintenance would be guaranted.

We will see. At the moment, I'm very happy. And the Price of the Battery-Set was really not expensive.

von Oli A. - am 22.04.2009 13:47
Hi, Oliver!

Did you still use original "El" charger?
I get advice to change my original charger with more powerfull 30 A .

This is the rerason why i ask, because i can`t change my charger in the moment, and maybe i will can`t change it very long long time ..
Reason - money.

von jnd - am 22.04.2009 16:16

The technologie of these batteries are different from normal lead acid batteries, they use a sheet of pure lead instead of a mixture of different materials, in case of this the reason for failure is that you have a cut in these sheets and the connection between the cells is broken.

The failure case of other typs mostly is a short circuit in a cell.

So you will have a very good batterie until end of life but the end comes very quick.

I think its a good solution to use this type of batteries, because the effect that the batterie becomes weak during their lifetime is minimized.



von R.M - am 22.04.2009 16:34
Thanks, Roman!

I hope - no cuts... :), but here we have big holes on the roads..
If this cuts apear in case of mechanical shock, I am doomed.

May i beg someone to put here a few big pictures of this batery?

von jnd - am 22.04.2009 17:32
Hello Liubomir
Trojan is the american leader of Traction Batteries.
I think you can reach up to 1000 Tykles under good circumstandes!
dont deep discarge >70% [ Recharge

von Reinhold Schebler - am 22.04.2009 18:41
Hi, Reinhold !

Water refilling !? Realy - this is a water refilling battery? I don`t see any screw caps on pics in the intrernet .
Definitely i will be very happy to see big pictures of 31XHS.
This is the reason i beg few posts up for pics ,i wonder is this a refilling battery or not.

And this is the answer .

One more question - i can`t change my charger now - it is original. What can i do? 1000 cicles is a dream for me or....?

This is charger:


von jnd - am 22.04.2009 19:25
Hi again

I'm still using my HF-Charger from citycom, yes. But at home im charging by my benning G48/33 Charger. So normally I'm charging at every time with 30-33A. Only when I have to charge anywhere I'm using the HF-Charger. But it works.
It's necessary that you know the configuration of your Charger. What a type (Lead-Acid, GEL or AGM?) of batteries did you use before? If these new batteries are not the same type as your batteries before, you have to change the charger-configuration. GEL Batteries would fail after a few charges, because they will get a too high voltage at the end of charging. Generally the like only 14.1V per Block ( 6 x 2.35 volts). Temperature correction is a big advantage when your car is parked outdoor or under various conditions. So take care.

At the homepage of Trojan Battery Company, you can find a usermanual under "Tech Support" --> "Trojan Battery User's Guide". There you'll find some diagrams an maintenance-tipps about Trojan Batteries.

von Oli A. - am 23.04.2009 00:21
This is how i set current and voltage resistors..
I set them this way for Lead-acid batteryes.


End charging voltage is around 47,5 - 48 volts.

If i must do something more i hope you tell me..


Table 2. Charger Voltage Settings for Flooded Batteries

System Voltage
Charger Voltage Setting 36V
Daily Charge 44.4
Float 39.6
Equalize 46.5
I am in total confuse - don`t understand nothing: 39,6 or 46,5 ? Every time diferent voltage or what?

von jnd - am 23.04.2009 05:03
Hi jnd

I can't open your links. Site can not be disyplayed.
I think with this configuration, your batteries never would become a full charge. Lead Acid Batteries should be charged at least about 14.4V per block. They should get gasing. And the level wich they will begin to gas, ist normaly 14.4 Volts. But you can go much higher with the voltage. I'm charging my lead Acid Batteries about 14.7V and after once odr twice a week, I'll charge them upon 15.6 Volts. Elso the electrolyte will be mixed very well. This is only for Lead-Acid, GEL don't like this and will fail over 14.1Volts.

If you charged your old Lead-acid batteries alway and only with 48V, your batteries "fell a sleep". Push them up tu 15.5 - 16.00 Volts for the next few cycles and check the Electrolyte Gravity. it should be between 1.25 and 1.28 - then the battery is fully charged and capacity is guaranteed.

von Oli A. - am 23.04.2009 10:55
^ Do you mean realy 48v ? "Push them up tu 15,5 - 16,00 Volis for the few..." 16 x 3 = 48 volts.
I always charge batteryes to 48 volts.
I think my old bateryes just can`t do more then 15 km. And i sold them.

Here are pics of current and voltage resistors settings. And pic of charger. I put them to other place i hope you can open it now :


von jnd - am 23.04.2009 11:11
Hi jnd..

Now it works with the pics. Thanks...
Oh okay, I made a mistake. I understood, you're driving by real 48 volts. Sorry! 3x16V it's okay for lead acid - or it should be. I'm not charging every time to 16V, because I'm sure, for the battery it's not very healty.

If you're driving GEL now, it's a must to change the caracteristic of your charger. Else, it will be very dangerous for GEL.

von Oli A. - am 24.04.2009 07:08

Pics of battery Trojan 105 Ah


At last i have my new acus.

600 Euro.

I take a few pics.

Have fun. :cheers:




von jnd - am 21.05.2009 13:15
Hello !


After 1 week with new batteryes i can`t run more then 20 km (70% discharge) . I measure ACID and it shows 1.30 (full charged).
But here we have few hills and bridges ..
I want to know do you always run on a level roads - do you have hills or bridges.

I charge my 3 acus Trojian to 45 volts.. Curent resistor shows 11.00 o`clock.(My multimeter don`t show nothing when i try to measure curent .)It is up to 10 A .

Did i mistake something?

20 km. is very short track. I hope to reach 30-35 km....

von jnd - am 01.06.2009 16:39
I'm sorry but I do not have any idea what's going on there with your batteries. I have had used those batteries twice several years ago and got a life of 13.000km with a distance range of up to 50km. Even on cold winter days I got at least 30km.
I think, you should measure the current. Lead batteries' behaviour is: the more current is drawn the less capacity they provide. Thus, I could imagine your range of about 20km with a permanent current of 120A or more.
In general: Try to draw less current during discharge and push high current during charging.
You can measure the current by using the pins on the diagnosis plug (see also elwiki: ) Connect your multimeter to pins 13 and 14, 50mV correspond to 150A current.

Good luck

von Ralf Engelhardt - am 04.06.2009 10:31
How exact current must be for this bateryes. How long last must be charging. My bateryes are full for 4-5 hours.

I measured to pins 13 and 14 and it shows 39 - 40 mV.

von jnd - am 04.06.2009 10:52
I don't understand what you mean with "How exact current must be for this bateryes".
The original charger is fairly good enough for start up. Charging time of approx. 5 hrs is OK. I assume that charging is not the problem.

Concerning the current:
40mV correspond to 120A. This needs to be investigated much more as this current is very high to be drawn permanently. Maybe your current limiter is out of order? See . If you need some help with a translation give me a note.

What production year is your car? S/N? What motor do you have? 36V / 48V?

Please check your current limiter first!


von Ralf Engelhardt - am 05.06.2009 06:59
Hello, Ralf,

This is it:

Made in Denmark

LO 2847




Here is under seat:


I realy need a big help with translation of this :

Today i just run only 12 km(60 % discharge).After this start to flash low voltage - tragedy...


2 Pics more:




von jnd - am 08.06.2009 10:41
I have no experience with that kind of Batteries.
If I look to Your first photo:


There I found written: (only) 75 Amps for 57 minutes.
I fear, that 120 Amps would be too much for them. If it was not, they would have added it to the table.
I fear, but I have no experience with those batteries. May be, they are not suitable for Your car and Your streets? Do You know Mr. Peukert?


I am driving Nicads, they do not know Mr. Peukert.

It looks like cheap starter batteries are not as much a friend of him.

But as far I can read in many links by google, these batteries should be suited, for traction:

"Hauptsächlich werden diese Batterien im Kleintraktionsbereich eingesetzt(Hebe-
bühnen, Golfcars, Kleinstapler, u.v.m.)." (German)
lifting platforms, Golf-cars, small "fork-lift trucks"

Here You do not find more informations:


Were the batteries really fresh?

Wer kann Luibomir helfen?

von Bernd Schlueter - am 08.06.2009 16:20
I turn 1 and 2 ( [www.elweb.info] ) to ZERO and.. .... I run 10 km. more.

von jnd - am 08.06.2009 17:52

Do you use the the "E2" socket on the engine ?
a old picture ,maybe you know the source....
If you do not use "E2" at all, then it is no surprise that you have problems
with your batteries.....

Bernd M

von Bernd_M - am 08.06.2009 18:58
Hi !

I don`t use it..

But how i run more km?

I am with Sevcon and i don`t know how and where to conect E2.

When my Curtis was broken and i put Sevcon i don`t know anithing about CityEl ( and i still don`t know much). This is the reason i don`t use E2.

If some one can help i will wait.. I want to know how to use E2 with Sevcon.

Everithing is so difficult, there is no one that understand something here in Sofia..

My speed is over 50 km/h sometimes.. i think this is because i don`t use E2.

von jnd - am 08.06.2009 19:14
and that is the price for the "Run over 50 km/h".

The E2 is a kind of "elektric gearbox"

With the regulare installation the EL have max 40-45 km/h
but less current for the batteries

Without E2 you can run 50-55km/h
but the high current is for any lead batterie the sure death!

With a elektric resistance you have a little more speed
and some more current

I can't give you an advice how to make it,
because there are diffent possibities.
It depends how you have installed the other sockets....

Bernd M
SN 3xxxx

von Bernd_M - am 08.06.2009 19:36
HI !

How can i help you to know more ? Do you want more pics?






Tell me if you don`t see some pic..

von jnd - am 08.06.2009 19:45
Poor Liubomir!
You should try to set down the current of Your car by inforcing the field. Because of the bad conditions of Your roads You will need more current, if you will not be successful at this point. Is the Compound fired? If I look to Your picture


,it looks like existing an open connection there.
You tell about more than 100 Ampere normally. That is all but not normal. We may speak about 75 Amps, not more, exept for acceleration and top speed, without Compound coil. But this will cost batteries.

Wer kann dazu etwas sagen? Ich habe keine Möglichkeit, nachzusehen.

von Bernd Schlueter - am 09.06.2009 14:22
Yes, I see


But a Question to all: (German)

Die Compoundwicklung ist parallel zum Motor geschaltet (gestrichelt). Frage:
Kann man die auch so schalten, dass bei geringer Geschwindigkeit, ich denke an die unzähligen Schlaglöcher in den Straßen, die volle Batteriespannung anliegt? Wie ich das sehe, müsste diese dann vom Anker getrennt werden? Andererseits gibt es da ja auch noch die "Gebirgsschaltung", bei der die beiden Wicklungshälften mit je 9 mOhm hintereinander statt parallel geschaltet sind. Geringerfügige Geschwindigkeitseinbuße, aber weniger Stromverbrauch bei Langsamfahrt. Was meint Ihr? Oder, ob da etwas mit den Batterien nicht stimmt? So können die sich doch überhaupt nicht erholen und schwimmen über den Jordan direktemang in das schwarze Meer!

I have no Cityel and because of that I have to ask the others...

Danke, Bernd. Auf jeden Fall wird die Compoundwicklung erst voll bestromt, wenn das Cityel auf Touren kommt. Ist doch ein Unding auf Bulgariens Straßen!

I think, something is not ideal with that wiring. Bitte, Cityelfahrer, schaut genau hin!

von Bernd Schlueter - am 09.06.2009 16:29


Hallo Bernd Schlütter,
die Schütze und der Controller sind nicht mehr Original
(die Schütze sehen bei mir auf jeden Fall anders aus)

Ohne Gewähr,sollte ein "Zweiter" bestätigen.
Die Lösung könnte relativ einfach sein,
E2 an Plus oder Minus Pol anschliesen
Richtig rum:EL wird vorwärts langsamer
Falsch rum :EL wird rückwärt langsamer
(wieleich sollte man vorher mal den Wiederstand E1 / E2 messen..?.)

Bernd M

von Bernd_M - am 09.06.2009 17:22


I want to ask one more thing - did i already damage my batteryes?
It is over 20 cycles in the moment . Now when i drive and speed increase over 40-43 km/h i stop to push "gas" pedal. I wach voltage for not fall under 35 volts when i stop and start to drive (on crossroads).

We think to connect compound coil with relay - "ON" only in straight direction.
Good idea ?

And VERY Important !... My priority is to run more kilometers (30 or more) i don`t want power.

von jnd - am 11.06.2009 13:40

Frage an alle!

Nun sagt mal was zu Liubomirs Frage. Ich bin ja nicht der Thrige-Experte. Kann man volle Batteriespannung an die Compound-Spule legen?
Wenn ich das richtig sehe, müssten da nur die Feldwicklungen und die Ankeranschlüsse umgetauscht werden? Compound käme dann direkt an Minus? Über einen Schalter? Oder auch nicht? Das wisst Ihr besser als ich! Dann müsste, falls das nicht zufällig auch die richtige Laufrichtung ist, das Bürstenfeuer bei Liubomirs Lieblingsgeschwindigkeit minimiert werden?
Ich meine, wer eine ähnliche Kiste besitzt, müsste eindeutig erkennen können, ob da falsch angeschlossen wurde?
Wo ist der zweite, der das, was Bernd_M vermutet, bestätigen kann?


Für mich hört sich das sehr einleuchtend an, aber ohne Erfahrung kann ich nichts Sicheres sagen.



Yes, it is my opinion, Your batteries will become worse soon, if hothing will be changed. As Bernd:M tells, wiring may not be okay. But I have no experience with Cityels...

von Bernd Schlueter - am 11.06.2009 16:14

Re: Frage an alle!


EL bis S-Nr. 3005 (4 Einzelschütze):

E1 (Compoundfeld) an Dauerplus über Sicherung 100A

E2 über Relais (von Fahrpedal gesteuert) und Sicherung 3A an Masse

D1 mit E1 verschaltet (intern im Thrige) und somit ebenfalls an Dauerplus

D2 am Curtis A2 und "Umschaltkontakt obere Schützgruppe"

M- (Curtis) an "Umschaltkontakt untere Schützgruppe"

A1 und A2 (Anker) an den Wendepolen der Schütze

Ergo hat das Compundfeld Dauerplus, wenn man "Gas" gibt.

EL ab S-Nr. 3006 (2 Doppelschütze):

"Umschaltkontakt obere Schütz-Kontaktgruppe" an Dauerplus über Sicherung 100A

"Umschaltkontakt untere Schütz-Kontaktgruppe" an D2 (Thrige) und A2 (Curtis)

D1 u. E1 an M- (dieser Anschluss wird von den Mosfet's im Curtis gegen Masse getaktet).

E2 (Compound) an Dauerplus über Sicherung 35A

A1 und A2 an den Wendepolen der Schütze

Somit ist das Compoundfeld mit über den Steller getaktet und wird unter Teillast und beim Anfahren nicht voll bestromt, was sich etwas ungünstig auf das Anfahrmoment und den Wirkunsgrad auswirkt.

Bei der Kürten-Schaltung werden die Pole D1 u. D2 mit A1 u. A2 vertauscht, E2 an Masse gelegt.
Dadurch bekommt das Compound bei Vorwärtsfahrt Dauerbefeuerung, rückwärts allerdings falsch gepolte Curtis-Impulse.

Noch Fragen, Kienzle?


von Friedhelm Hahn - am 11.06.2009 18:29

Re: Frage an alle!

Liubomirs Verdrahtung erinnert demnach mehr an den Kewet, könnte aber in der Funktion im manchmal der originalen entsprechen. Irgendwann ist dann aber das Compound falsch gepolt. Wenn das dann ausgerechnet bei Vorwärtsfahrt der Fall ist, na dann Prost Mahlzeit, auch schon vor Überschreiten der Überschallgeschwindigkeit.
gehe ich fehl in der Annahme, das Liubomir durch relativ wenige Änderungen das in Ordnung bringen könnte und dabei die für bulgarische Straßenverhältnisse wahrscheinlich günstigere Kürtenschaltung verwenden könnte? Compound dann möglichst ausschaltbar!
Ob D1, D2 und A1, A2 vertauscht werden sollten? Ich blicke da nicht ganz durch. Das wäre dann Kürtenmäßig, mit Bürstenverstellung.
Andererseits, Compound und A2 sind fest verdrahtet, dann müsste doch eigentlich alles richtig sein!

Nein, die Compoundwicklung dürfte im Rückwärtsgang falsch gepolt sein.
Ein Kewet hat meist kein Compound.

von Bernd Schlueter - am 12.06.2009 12:18

Hello ! :)

Hallo !

After mani problems finaly me and my friend connect compound coil.
We use one contactor and compound is switch-on only ahead. I will post few pics soon.
Now i can`t drive more fast than 45 km/h.
But i can`t run more than 25 km. again :(

I take few pics of hills we have.I think hills is main problem.

[www.picvalley.net] < Behind the Jeep is hill - yes it`s steep !!!

Two more:



All city is like this.

May be i must buy one more akumulator and go to 48 volts.

von jnd - am 07.07.2009 11:18

Re: Hello ! :)

Hello Liubomir
I measured to pins 13 and 14 and it shows 39 - 40 mV.

is the current now less than before ?

Bernd M

von Bernd_M - am 07.07.2009 21:34

Re: Hello ! :)


If you measure 40mV at the Shunt your current is about 120A, you can drive with 40 to 60A with a speed of 40 to 45 km/h.

If you drive with a current above 80 A your batteries will not last very long.



von R.M - am 07.07.2009 21:54


Now i went and measured it, when i start to drive(max gas pedal) few meters is maximum 5.1(my multimeter have 200m low position for milivolts.I hope this responds to 51mV )When i drive most of time is 4.1
And when everithing is turn off it shows 2.1 -1.9 - may be this is not normal?

von jnd - am 08.07.2009 05:45
Hi !

Last results .
I use clamp meter and 120 - 130 A is only in few seconds when i start to drive . After this current is less then 40 A . If hill is big for seconds goes to 160 A.
I think hills are my problem...
How can i run 10 km more?

A: Buy one more Trojan

B: Trojans to the recicle bin and buy nica or lion..

C: Go to the equal city.


I will wait for advice.

von jnd - am 08.07.2009 14:56
the clamp meter is is
- between the Trojan and the controller or
- between the controller and the motor ?
My opion is,the 160A is far to much !
(If you "start" than sometimes you have a higher current,
but if you "drive" 160A is to much.)

There have to be a other problem .
All wheels and brakes are OK ?
Sometimes the brake springs don't pull the brake back...

But in may opinon 30km with new ,good trained batteries are possible,
on a flat road without many stops.
If you want more, I can't suggest you a cheap solution.
(Have you already tried to train your batteries ?)


Do your controller support 48V ?

if you have the money....
than this is good idea.
Some have good experiens with "used" nica batterie from aeroplanes.
Maybe there is a market in your contry .

and also without traffic lights.
and you have to drive always on the main road.....

Bernd M

von Bernd_M - am 08.07.2009 20:25
Hallo, dear friends !


How to "TRAIN" batteries ??? (please explane)

My controller suport to 80 V.

I measured between the controller and the motor.

Clamp meter never shows 160 A long time only for second or two, this is just top of current but it is only in very extrem hill (15` - 20` ).,

I normally start in flat road with 100 A max. After this is less than 20 -30 A.

von jnd - am 09.07.2009 09:09

Re: Advice 48V

I haven not this experiens one my one.

If you want to install 48V you have to look at
- window cleaner ( resistor 10-12ohm,12Watt)
-blower (resistor 44 Ohm, 3,2 Watt)
-heater (deinstall the secont step)
-the current limeter (I don't know)
-the relais for the engine (I don't know your version)
-the DC/DC (36V to 12V //48V to 12V)
-the positon of the additional Batterie
(normaly in front of the front wheel,
because the back is not strong enough)

Bernd M

von Bernd_M - am 09.07.2009 19:36
this is without any warranty!
Maybe ask your batterie manufator for advice !

Version 1
-after you have do your trip...
-turn on your blower and your heater on step two.
The important think is that you have to check each battery each 10min.
If one batterie goes under 10.8 Volt ....
-turn down your blower and your heater on step one.
If one batterie goes under 10.8 Volt ....
-turn of your heater,and turn all lights on
normaly it last a lot of time that the batterie again goes down to 10.8V
But I think you shall have a look each houre at least...
-at last,if you run out of time or the first batterie is again on 10.8V
beginn to charge the batteries with as much current as possible.

Vision 2
Try to drive on one day as much as possible
load ,drive,load,drive,load,drive....
normaly after each turn the distance will grow.
The disadvantage is that after a "long weekend" the distance
is often as short as before....
(and the batterie manufactor is not happy with this version...)

I measured between the controller and the motor.

there is a big difference,try it !
The ampere is OK at that position.
The ampere between batterie and controller will have not as much current

Bernd M

von Bernd_M - am 09.07.2009 19:59
Ok . i will do this .
How big must be voltage ?Normaly is 15,6V per battery.
I mean when i train 3 batteries bateryes must be? Again 15,6V ?

44 V
46 V
48 V


By the way i find another one City El Here in Sofia :) :) :) .Tomorrow is the meeting. The Man told me that he drive 60 km. with Bulgarian batteryes. I am in shock. I thing my el have some other problem . Back 2 tyres spining lithle difficult, only little. Front wheel spin very easy.

von jnd - am 09.07.2009 20:49


Best results for today !!!

40 km.. and i just was so tired to drive more..

After all trip still have 37 V.

It seems capacity meter don`t show corect data .

von jnd - am 10.07.2009 12:03

the capacity meter is anytime wrong !
The best thing for lead batteries is ,
one Volt meter for each batterie .
(you can see with some experiens the health of the batterie
If all batteries do nearly the same,it is OK.
But if you have different Volt there is a problem)

Please don't mix "high current" with "high volt" (15V is far to much..)
Please be sure that you have floated/wet batteries.
(if you have gel or agm you will damage the batterie)
please have also a look at

Bernd M

von Bernd_M - am 10.07.2009 17:37
I have lead acid batteries 100 %.

This 15 volts is in the end of charging. Other previous time is less volts..


After all good news me and other El owner, realizing the first in hitrory of Bulgaria CityEl forum meeting.


Еvidence :


von jnd - am 10.07.2009 18:10
Hi !
I drive just like every other regular car.
Sometimes 40 km. sometimes less.
I charge with original charger of El .
I charge every battery usual to 15 volts per charge - otherwise to short range.
I also use another one charger for "home charging".
I think that the main problem is in a big holes in Bulgaria. This shock every day.. also in the summer was so hot .. and have some big hills here.

So i squeeze it to death and sell it for:
100 euro one in good condition and another one for 25 euro with one half death sell.
For me the truth for lead-acid battery is - cheap batts and change it every year.

I hope some day to have yttrium battts.
I hope also some one to invent new batts that we can charge when temperature is -15 `C.


von jnd - am 08.10.2010 13:18
Zur Information:
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